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Life's too short to drink bad wine!
I never used to drink wine until I was in a restaurant in Gillingham, Kent with my first wife, drinking water. I looked around at all the other customers drinking wine and thought, "I'm missing out here!". The next morning, I went straight out and bought a copy of 'Decanter' magazine. Looking through it, I found a wine group in the Rochester area of Kent, UK, went along to a tasting of German white wines, and the rest, as they say, is history.
When I moved to Sussex, I joined SWAS, the Sussex Wine Appreciation Society. They meet monthly, on the first Saturday of the month. Tastings are at each other's houses and are usually about eight wines followed by dinner. The society is non-profit making and is run by the members. If you are interested, please email me your name, address and telephone number and I'll pass on your details.
My main sources of wine are various branches of Oddbins, Waitrose, Tesco and Butlers Wine Cellar in Brighton (particularly good for old wines).
A while back, I watched Silence of the Lambs, so I had to drink a bottle of Chianti, an Arcano Chianti Colli Senisi 2000 from Waitrose. As the bottle says, "Made from organically grown grapes in the mutual interest of Plantlife, the Environment and Mankind". Very fruity and much enjoyed, even without a census-taker!

We're
lucky that England doesn't have a great wine-making tradition, as we can buy wines from all over the
world.
I enjoy that great Indian sparkling wine, Omar Khayyam, but haven't seen it on sale for a while. It is named after the renowned Indo-Persian poet and is made in a modern winery in the Sahyadri Mountains about 180km south-east of Bombay, under the supervision of champagne specialists Piper Hiedsieck. It is available both as a vintage and non-vintage wine, but is all exported.
I love Chateau Musar from the Bekaa Valley, Lebanon and have put on several vertical wine tastings over the years. Chateau Musar was founded in the 1930's by Gaston Hochar, and is run today by his son, Serge. I have been lucky enough to have been at a tasting tutored by Serge. The winery is located 16 miles north of Beirut, with vineyards 15 miles west at an elevation over 3,000 feet. I've found the white undistinguished, but the red is superb, full, rich and fruity. I've tried most vintages since 1969 (very peppery) and 1970 (the best Musar I've ever tasted), but have yet to be disappointed.
You can find information about Portuguese wines here. I particularly enjoy a nice Madeira - in fact I had a 1900 Bual as part of a special nine-course meal I made for the Millennium. The oldest wine I've ever had the privilege of tasting was also a Madeira - 1795, and it was great!
I have to mention French wines, and when I eat out, I frequently go for Alsace, which is very reliable and usually good value for money. I particularly like wines made from the gewürztraminer grape.
I drink a lot of Chilean wines. I particularly enjoy Concha Y Toro, Errazuriz and Cousino Macul wines.
I've also found a good site featuring Greek wines, of which Oddbins is a good source.
I usually host at least one tasting a year. I have put on other tastings for SWAS and I will list them all when I get the chance. I buy many of the wines for my tastings from Butlers Wine Cellar in Brighton. Have you seen the story about my raucous tastings on my Mexican travel page?
Owing to a miscommunication, I only had 48 hours to decide on a theme and choose all the wines on my return from a conference in San Francisco. Jet-lagged and weary, I managed to come up with this tasting. I bought the wines, finished the research and speech, and finalised the menu, which was casseroled lambs liver and steak with orange, onion and mushrooms, served with baked potatoes. Dessert was a baked pear cream tart. My eldest daughter came round to cook and prepare the house, and I don't know what I would have done without her help. I wasn't over-keen on the Chardonnay, but enjoyed all the others. Overall, I enjoyed the tasting, the food, the company and the wines.
| wine | strength | grape | shop | year |
price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pulenta XIV | 13.0% | Pinot Gris | Butler | 2008 | £7.50 |
| Tapiz | 13.5% | Chardonnay | Butler | 2006 | £7.99 |
| Colonia las Liebres | 13.1% | Bonarda | Butler | 2006 | £6.50 |
| Tapiz | 13.5% | Cabernet Sauvignon | Butler | 2004 | £7.99 |
| Fournier Alpha Crux | 14.5% | Malbec | Butler | 2005 | £20.99 |
| Finca la Anita | 14.0% | Petit Verdot | Butler | 2005 | £19.75 |
| Laborum | 14.3% | Tannat | Butler | 2005 | £19.95 |
| Rupestre Quebrada de las Flechas | 14.5% | 65% Malbec, 25% Merlot and 10% Tannat | Butler | 2004 | £18.50 |
| Colonia las Liebres (Raffle prize) | 13.1% | Bonarda | Butler | 2006 | £6.50 |
| Estepa (Raffle prize) | 12.5% | 55% Torrentes, 35% Semillon and 10% Trousseau | Butler | 2005 | £5.99 |
"I thought it would be interesting to taste the individual grapes of Châteauneuf, and see how well they combine into a harmonious whole."
I decided on the menu - the main course was be chicken escalope with Serrano ham and lemon, with spicy lentils as the vegetarian option. I was surprised how difficult it was to source some of the varietals. Several US suppliers refused to ship to England, so I had to compromise on a Cinsault, Merlot blend. I thoroughly enjoyed the tasting on Saturday. The wines were well-received and nobody heckled my talk. I particularly enjoyed La Croix Gratiot and the two Châteauneufs but all the wines were good. It was very interesting so see how the character of some of the grapes was very evident in the Châteauneuf-du-Papes, and I think the tasting has given me a greater appreciation of these wines. I was very pleased to receive a very touching note of thanks from Roger and Jane a couple of days later.
| wine | country | strength | grape | shop | year |
price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Château Ciceron Corbières Blanc | France | 13.5% | Grenache Blanc | The Wine Society | 2006 |
£9.95* |
| La Croix Gratiot | France | 13.5% | Roussanne | Butler | 2006 |
£4.95 |
| Domaine de la Charbonniere | France | 13.5% | Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc and Clairette | Butler | 2003 |
£14.95 |
Cape Hills |
South Africa | 13.0% | Cinsault, Merlot | Quaff | 2004 |
£4.99 |
| Barossa | Australia | 14.5% | Grenache | Butler | 2004 |
£5.99 |
| Spice Route | South Africa | 14.5% | Mouvedre | Quaff | 2005 |
£10.99 |
| Cossentino | Sicily | 14.0% | Syrah | Butler | 2005 |
£10.95 |
| Le Devers | France | 13.9% | Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvedre and Muscardin | Butler | 1996 |
£16.50 |
| La Croix Gratiot (Raffle prize) | France | 13.5% | Roussanne | Butler | 2006 |
£4.95 |
| MandraRossa (Raffle prize) | Sicily | 13.5% | Syrah | Butler | 2006 |
£5.95 |
*includes £5 postage and packing
"Our cruise ship tonight will be docking at various locations to see just how good some of the coastal wines can be."
The tasting was on 2nd June, and was a great success. I finished writing my talk - from the point of view of the captain of the cruise ship S.S. WAS - then rushed around the house like a mad thing, trying to make it presentable. I cooked the dessert - a ghalatoboureko, printed out the maps and started cooking the main course, aubergine moussaka. Chris returned from France in the nick of time, created the salads and finished off the moussaka. I thought the talk went down well, and the wines were also well-received.
For value for money, my favourites were the Cossentine Gadi and the Liveli Passamante, but they were all popular. The wines were accompanied by the traditional Bath Oliver and Carrs water biscuits. Thanks to Chris for her help with the food, and for pouring the wines, and to my children, who helped tidy up the house during the day. The wines were:
| wine | country | strength | grape | shop | year |
price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Castillo Perelada | Spain | 12.0% | Xarel-lo, Muscat | South Downs Cellars | 2006 |
£6.95 |
| Cossentine Gadi | Sicily | 13.5% | Catarratto | South Downs Cellars | 2005 |
£7.50 |
| Liveli Passamante | Italy | 13.0% | Negroamaro | South Downs Cellars | 2004 |
£8.95 |
| Othello Red | Cyprus | 13.0% | Mavro and Ophthalmo | St Martin Vintners | NV |
£7.15 |
| Domain Tempier | France (Bandol) | 14.0% | Mouvedre | South Downs Cellars | 2003 |
£16.95 |
| Les 3 Siècles | France (Nimes) | 13.5% | Carignon | South Downs Cellars | 2001 |
£19.95 |
| Gaia Estate | Greece | 14.0% | Agiorgitiko | Oddbins | 2000 |
£17.49 |
| Chateau Musar | Lebanon | 14.0% | Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Carignan | Waitrose | 1999 |
£13.99 |
| Cavallina Grecanico (Raffle prize) | Sicily | 12.0% | Grecanico | South Downs Cellars | 2005 |
£5.50 |
| Maison Badet, Clement & Cie (Raffle prize) | France (Cote d'Or) | 12.0% | Chardonnay | South Downs Cellars | 2004 |
£5.50 |
| total | |
£ 109.93 |
I have to say that the Internet is an invaluable resource when researching wines - or anything else for that matter. Instead of poring over dusty volumes, the facts - or someone's interpretation of them - are instantly available.
I was a little disappointed that nobody sponsored my bike ride on Saturday 9th June, but perhaps they will contribute online. See www.justgiving.com/theblissride2007.
Well, it's over. I chose the wines, researched and written up my talk, and cooked and served the food, with Chris' help. Apart from the Moko Matakana Estate, which was bought from Quaff in Hove, and the raffle prizes, bought from Tesco, the wines came from Butlers Wine Cellar in Brighton. Wines I chose were:
| wine | region | strength | grape | year |
price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lincoln Heritage | Gisborne | 13.5% | Gewurztraminer | 2004 |
£9.50 |
| Isabel | Marlborough | 13.0% | Sauvignon Blanc | 2004 |
£11.50 |
| Isabel | Marlborough | 13.0% | Sauvignon Blanc | 2001 |
£11.50 |
| Dog Point | Marlborough | 14.0% | Chardonnay | 2002 |
£15.50 |
| Amisfield | Central Otago | 13.9% | Pinot Noir | 2003 |
£17.95 |
| Moteo Terroire Reserve | Hawkes Bay | 13.0% | Merlot | 2002 |
£11.95 |
| Moko Matakana Estate | Matakana | 12.5% | Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot | 2000 |
£12.50 |
| Isabel | Marlborough | 13.5% | Pinot Noir | 1999 |
£17.50 |
| Matua Valley (Raffle prize) | 12.5% | Red | 2003 |
£5.99 |
|
| Matua Valley (Raffle prize) | 13.5% | Chardonnay | 2004 |
£5.99 |
|
| total | |
£ 119.88 |
The menu comprised Lamb with Apricots as the main course, followed by Summer Peach and Cream Cheese Slice, with as always, Bath Olivers and Carrs Water biscuits to cleanse the palate between wines. The tasting went well, with the wines all well-received. For me, the best wines of the evening were the Lincoln Heritage Gewurztraminer, the Isabel 2001 Sauvignon Blanc and the Amisfield Pinot Noir, though the Moko Matakana Estate was also very nice, and good value. Apart from forgetting to put the stuffed mushrooms in the oven in time for a non meat-eater, I think the food went well - and I know what I'll be eating for the next few days, as I always fear cooking too little, so err on the side of caution.
All the work I put in on researching, writing up the wines, and deciding on the menu, as well as working out how to fit everyone in my new, smaller, venue, paid off, as the tasting was a success. All the wines came from Butlers Wine Cellar in Brighton. Wines we drank were:
| wine | area | strength | grape | colour | year |
price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Estepa | Río Negro | 13.0% | Torrontes, Trousseau, and Semillon | white | 2004 |
£5.75 |
| Vinas de Atilio Avena | Mendoza | 13.0% | Chardonnay | white | 2002 |
£6.50 |
| Etchhart | Cafayate | 13.5% | Chardonnay | white | 1997 |
£9.50 |
| Estepa | Río Negro | 14.5% | Malbec, Merlot, and Syrah | white | 2004 |
£5.75 |
| Xumek Sol Huarpe | San Juan | 14.0% | Malbec | red | 2003 |
£7.95 |
| Cicchitti | Mendoza | 13.5% | Merlot | red | 2004 |
£5.75 |
| Valbona | San Juan | 13.0% | Bonarda | red | 2002 |
£7.75 |
| Fabre Montmayou | Mendoza | 14.0% | Cabernet Sauvignon | red | 2000 |
£8.99 |
| Benegas | Mendoza | 14.3% | Sangiovese | red | 2001 |
£12.50 |
| Estepa (Raffle prize) | Río Negro | 13.0% | Torrontes, Trousseau, and Semillon | white | 2004 |
£5.75 |
| Estepa (Raffle prize) | Río Negro | 14.5% | Malbec, Merlot, and Syrah | red | 2001 |
£5.75 |
I cooked an Argentinean beef stew, followed up with the dessert I cooked for the '03 tasting, a Budino di Limone, Riso e Mandorle - or Lemon Rice Almond Pudding. My worries about space were unfounded, as everyone seemed to fit in fine - only fourteen in the end, as one person was unfortunately indisposed. I created a couple of maps of the Argentinean wine area and gave a talk - most of the time, people even listened! The best news was that I woke up the next morning feeling fine, with no trace of a headache.
Favourite wines of the evening? The white Estepa was very popular, as were the Fabre Montmayou and Benegas wines, but actually, they were all pretty popular, though the Chardonnays were not universally liked - they were perhaps a little oxidised.
The idea for this tasting was to take four classic grapes and drink a pair of wines from each grape. It was very successful with some fantastic wines, and we had a great time!
| wine | country | grape | colour | year |
price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Benegas | Argentina | Chardonnay | white | 2000 |
£8.75 |
| Meursault "Les Grand Charrons" | France | Chardonnay | white | 2001 |
£21.00 |
| Alsace Heissenburg "Domaine Ostertag" | France | Riesling | white | 1998 |
£13.99 |
| Tesch "Langenlonsheimer Königsschild" Auslese | Germany | Riesling | white | 1998 |
£13.50 |
| Justin "Paso Robles Halter Vineyard" | USA | Syrah | red | 2000 |
£22.99 |
| "Henry's Drive", Pathaway | Australia | Shiraz | red | 2000 |
£17.00 |
| Capogreco Mildura | Australia | Cabernet Sauvignon | red | 1987 |
£14.50 |
| Chateau de Pez, St Estephe | France | Cabernet Sauvignon | red | 1985 |
£25.00 |
| First Step (Raffle prize) | Australia | Chardonnay | white | 1980 |
£5.25 |
| Vin de Pays d'Oc "Les Maynardies" (Raffle prize) | France | Syrah | red | 2001 |
£4.75 |
I try to host a SWAS tasting once a year and the theme for this one was Northern Italian wines. We tasted a couple of wines each from the sixties and seventies and four from the eighties, ranging from a young dry white, though mature reds to a unctuous dessert wine. Afterwards the eighteen of us sat down for a meal - Maccheroni al Forno, Classico Sformato Italiano and Budino di Limone, Riso e Mandorle - or Macaroni Cheese, Classic Italian Casserole and Lemon Rice Almond Pudding if you want it in English! I was pleased the menu I'd chosen was so successful - we hadn't cooked any of the recipes before, and I'd like to thank my wife for the excellent cooking! I selected and researched the wines for my talk - though the internet, reference books and of course, by drinking some, including the 1969, which was a real treat! All the wines (other than the 1971, which was oxidised and all but undrinkable) were well-received. I thought the star of the tasting was the Barolo.
| wine | colour | year |
price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cesconi Nosiola (Trentino) | white | 2000 |
£9.95 |
| Barolo (Monfalletto, Cordero di Montezeno) | red | 1982 |
£25.00 |
| Negri Grumello Valtellina Superiore | red | 1981 |
£13.50 |
| Negri Grumello Valtellina Superiore | red | 1980 |
£13.50 |
| Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale | red | 1975 |
£14.95 |
| Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale | red | 1971 |
£17.00 |
| Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale | red | 1969 |
£15.00 |
| Vino Spanna Cantina Castello di Montalbano | red | 1967 |
£16.50 |
| Vin Santo (Frescobaldi) - dessert | white | 1980 |
£22.50 |
| Alpha Zeta Soave (Raffle prize) | white | 2001 |
£4.50 |
| Chianti (Cantine Leonardo) (Raffle prize) | red | 2000 |
£5.99 |
I went to a tasting in Wivelsfield Green at The Cock Inn, on 6 May 2004 and enjoyed the wines and company.
We started off with a sparkling wine. Yellow, with a dry, refreshing taste, but not a lot on the nose, it was an inexpensive French wine - Richemont Pere & Fils. At only about £3, it would be fantastic for balmy summer evenings.
We then had an Italian Chardonnay, but this was a very strange wine. Plenty of legs and a fairly oxidised, rich, taste - almost sherry-like. It was a 1999 Tormaresca from the Puglia region and was 13% and was sourced from Sainsbury's. It was very aromatic, dark and oaked.
We then moved to a couple of French wines, 1999 Rully and 2001 Mercurey. With a much more subtle nose than the Italian, I preferred the smell of these wines. The Rully was inoffensive. The Mercury was slightly oxidised - almost akin to the Italian.
We then moved onto the reds. First was a 1996 Chateau Jonqueyres. This had a light, fruity nose. Pleasant, fruity on the palate, I enjoyed this unpretentious wine.
We then tried a more powerful but less interesting bordeaux, a 2000 Numero 1. It was a little harsh and tannic, but coped with the hot Thai food with which it was served.
We then tasted a 1998 St Emilion Chateau La Croix Cardinal and a 1996 Chateau Bonnet. Both were pleasant, but unmemorable.
Next was a 1994 Cote du Blaye Haut Sociondo. This was fruity and rich but not too tannic and the best wine of the evening so far.
1990 Clos Renon was interesting, but rather more tannic.
A 1989 Pessac-Leognan Haut-Gardere was next, and was very nice and improved in the glass.
We then moved on to a Margaux, a 1994 Chateau Labegorce Fede, shipped by the Wine Society. The nose was fruity and pleasant, but the surprise was on the palate. It was classy, smooth, subtle and full of flavour.
We finished with a 1996 Chateau Larose Grande Cru Classe St Emilion. The nose was huge and the wine tasted balanced; fruits and tannins in harmony.
As an added bonus, before I left, I had another glass or two pressed into my hand. The nose was huge, the Jimmy Durante of wines. The taste was better. It was a 1990 Savigny-les-Beaune, followed by a 1955 Rioja Vina Monty, which was absolutely fantastic
Overall, a pleasant evening with good company, though with rather more wine than I usually drink. I made sure I had plenty of water and a cup of tea when I got home - then I fell asleep on the sofa for a couple of hours!
For more information, contact Woodlands Fine and Rare Wines on 07867 581045 or 01444 474256.
I went to a tasting in London on 19th November 2002 and enjoyed such wines as Champagne, Chilean Chardonnay, Alsace Gewurtzraminer, Australian Merlot and Shiraz, Sauternes and vintage Port.
Another tasting of Californian wines on 1st April 2003 was also great fun.
On Christmas Eve 2001, I hosted an informal Sherry tasting and pre-Christmas get-together for neighbours, relatives and friends. We had many varied styles of sherry, from very dry Fino, through Manzanilla, Amontillado and Oloroso to unctuous Pedro Ximenez. Last year, I mulled a case or so of red wine.
click to enlarge - back to return
Highlights included Tio Pepe fino from Gonzalez Byass, a very dry, austere but refreshing sherry, it is one of my favourite finos, along with La Ina from Domecq. The only problem with La Ina is that it's at its best within 24 hours, whilst Tio Pepe lasts for a couple of weeks.
Moving along to Manzanilla, which is slightly sweeter than fino, we had one from Waitrose, which was pleasant, and one bottled especially for Oddbins, which was made according to classic methods and was extremely good. It had for me, the tang of the sea, which is lacking in most Manzanillas.
We also had a few Amontillados. The Waitrose Amontillado was again, a nice wine. It was overshadowed by the Solera Reserva Los Arcos from Lustau, and floored by the superlative Amontillado de Jerez from Lustau's Almacenista® range. This was made from a solera of only 30 barrels.
On to Oloroso and again we had a Dry Oloroso from Waitrose, followed by Lustau's Solera Reserva rich Old Oloroso, which was superb and unctuous.
Other bottles I drank later (that is over the next few years, not later that evening!) include Lustau's Almacenista Oloroso pata de Gallina, Lustau's Solera Reserva Moscatel Superior Emilín, and Oddbin's Valdespino Oloroso Dulce.
Since the tasting, I tried Don PX from Bodegas Toro Albalá, who I notice sell 1939 and 1945 vintages or PX at about €200! PX of course, stands for the Pedro Ximinez grape variety which makes an intensely sweet raisinous sherry. It was unctuously sweet, and I loved it. I don't know when I'll get the chance to taste this again, as I'm currently limiting my sweet wine intake.
I also drank a Lustau Puerto Fino, which I think is even better than Tio Pepe.
I get a lot of bottles from Butlers Wine Cellar and make no apology that most of my memorable bottles come from there. They are very reasonably priced and although I buy a lot of unusual and bargain wines, I have only ever had one bottle from them I couldn't drink (one of a quartet of 1962 Chateau de Pez) out of several hundred.
Thinking of the best wines I have ever had, I have to include a 1928 Loire wine from the Madame Prunier collection and the four vintages of Chateau d'Yquem I have been privileged to taste.
Another bottle has made it into my list of great wines. Some friends bought round a bottle of 1976 Chateau Haut Brion. This Premier Grande Cru Classe from Graves was absolutely fantastic - probably the best Bordeaux I have ever tasted.
March I rather enjoyed this 1998 Robert Mondavi Fume Blanc, bought from St Martin's Vintners when it was reduced from £18 to £12.
On another evening this month, I drank a 1981 Mersault with some friends. Amazing!
January Another memorable wine when I drank this 1970 Rioja in a distinctively squared-off bottle. An very enjoyable wine.
March A memorable evening with friends with a 1966 Chateau Rauzan Gassies from Margaux. An very enjoyable wine.
October Some friends brought round another lovely bottle - a 1961 Chateau Belair from St Emilion. It tasted much younger than its chronological age and was superb - fruity and fresh. I also thoroughly enjoyed a 1993 Chateau Le Gabachot from Pomerol tasted on the same night.
28 December I opened a great sherry today, a Sibarita Palo Cortado from Domecq. The solera was established in 1792 and the average age of this wine is more than 60 years at bottling time Again, I had problems with the cork, and had to decant the bottle. It is very intense and everyone who has tried it, liked it.
25 December
I tasted a good bottle on Christmas day, a 1971 Chateau Dauzac, a Grand Cru Classe from Margaux - once I managed to open it. The cork was crumbling and in the end, I had to push it into the bottle and strain the wine through a kitchen towel before we could drink it.
It was smooth yet still retaining some fruit and we enjoyed it.
October I don't tend to drink many special bottles now, as finances are very tight but recently had some friends round, and we tasted a couple of especially nice wines. First was a 1990 Puligny-Montrachet. Full, rich and buttery, this was a superb example of Chardonnay, and I really enjoyed it. I also enjoyed a 1976 Vega de la Reina. This spanish wine was from Butlers Wine Cellar and was light brick-red in colour, with a fruity rich taste. I really enjoyed this one too. The other wines we drank were also nice, but I suffered for my indulgences, spending most of the night in the bath.
January I haven't had much German wine since I was diagnosed with Diabetes, as it is generally quite sweet. Don't let memories of sickly Spanish plonk put you off good sweeties, though. Germanic sweet wines are generally well-balanced and this 1971 Johannisberger Erntebringer Riesling Spätlese from Deinhard was superb. Wines from the Rheingau region have always been my favourite. Golden in colour and fresh in taste, it seemed impossible that it was over thirty years old. It was £13 from Butlers Wine Cellar and worth every penny.
25 December To help celebrate Christmas, I decided to open a bottle of 1970 port, Kopke. It was £30 from Butlers Wine Cellar. I laboriously chipped off the wax seal and started to extract the cork with my trusty Screwpull™ corkscrew. I noticed something moving inside the cork - some sort of weevil, I presumed. I was surprised that it had survived for so long inside the wax seal. With sinking heart, I tasted it, expecting it to have been spoilt, but no, it was lovely. A pale brick-red in colour with a sweet but delicate taste, it was enjoyed by all who tried it.
20 September was my wife's last day as a midwife before she started her course to train as a health visitor, so I decided to make a special meal. The salmon I bought was too big to go in my fish kettle, so I had to cut off the head and tail before I could get it in. The only other problem was the 2.5 litres of fish stock I needed in which to poach it. I accompanied it with a 1983 Chablis Grand Cru Les Vaudésirs, which was deep yellow, with a huge nose and a rich, toasty taste. It was a bit pricier than I normally go to, at £27.50, but I've always had a weakness for Crand Cru Chablis! Unfortunately, the weakness also seems to extend to my stomach, as, although we only had one bottle between three of us, I felt very unwell for over a day. A sad end to a lovely meal.
5 September was our tenth anniversary, so not really an occasion to celebrate (see my views on my marriage). Still, I try to make an effort, so to accompany the white lilies and can of Gordons G&T (the traditional 10th wedding anniversary gift is aluminium or tin), I opened a bottle of Australian wine, a 1987 Capogreco Milduro Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine seemed appropriate, as 1987 was the year we met, on a beach in Ko Samet in Thailand. As usual with Australian wines, there was a wealth of information on the label. It seems the grapes were handpicked in mid-March, and was basket-pressed, then matured for ten years in 2,500 litre American oak casks and bottled on 2nd November 1997. It was £14.50 from Butlers Wine Cellar and was superb, with a rich full nose and lovely fruity taste. Shame it was the only thing that was fruity...
31 July was National Orgasm Day. Organised for the last few years by sex-shop Anne Summers, it is a fairly low-profile event. As a married man, I don't generally get the chance to celebrate it ... still, just in case, I bought a few oysters and a bottle of 1978 Chablis. I had a headache all day which didn't bode well for the evening. My wife hated the oysters, so I ended eating them all. The wine was a different matter, though I was quite abstemious as my head was still paining me. It was superb, deep-yellow in colour with a rich taste that brought back many happy memories. In the early eighties, my first wife and I drank a lot of Premier and Grand Cru 1978 Chablis - a particularly good year that encouraged full wines rather than the austere steely style normally associated with Chablis. We accompanied this with a smoked mackerel salad, and watched The Sum of all Fears. The sum of my fears were unfortunately realised as my headache suddenly got worse and I had to retire to the bath. The next morning, it was still there...
I recently had a trio of wonderful wines, to celebrate my recent birthday. First was a 1987 Berncasteler Doctor Reisling Kabinett (Dr H Thanisch), which at 16 years was the youngest wine of the evening! We followed this by a 1977 Chassagne-Montrachet (£9.99) which was very light in colour, but lovely on the nose and palate, accompanied by Duck a l'Orange. We finished with a 1940 Chateau Haut Brion. This Premier Grande Cru Classe from Graves is probably the oldest, non-fortified red I've ever tasted, and was still very much alive. It was like drinking a slice of history, made as it was, during the Second World War. We accompanied this with cheese and followed it with an episode of Faulty Towers. Which one? The Germans, of course, and it seemed even funnier after three bottles of wine. As we turned off the video, NASCAR racing was on and we were amazed to see Mike Bliss in twelfth place! Not me, but my American namesake (see information on the other Mike Bliss here). An appropriate way to finish off an enjoyable evening.
Other special bottles this year include a 1982 Auxey-Duresses (a Santenay) which was an amazing bottle at £12.75. I'll be seeing if Butlers Wine Cellar has any more, as I think it's a bargain. Surprisingly youthful, deep yellow in colour with a great nose, it was at its peak.
In June, I also drank a 1986 Chateau Carteau Saint-Emilion Grand Cru (£14.50), a wonderful 1983 Mountmains Chablis Premier Cru (£16.50) and a 1967 Vino Spanna Cantina Castello di Montalbano (£16.50) all from Butlers Wine Cellar.
I enjoyed a 1980 port, a Borges Porto at under £20. Very nice, but as always with good port, far too easy to drink!
A 1978 Morgon "Domaine des Vieux Cedres" E. Loron et Fils was very pleasant, and at under a tenner, very affordable too! Morgon is the second largest of the ten Crus of Beaujolais, and one of the most distinctive.
A 1969 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale just had to be tasted as part of my research for my April 2003 tasting. A hard job, but someone had to do it! Just for the record, it was lovely.
A 1979 Pichet D'Alsace was also very good value at less than five pounds. It was an Edelzwicker, which means "noble wine," and comprises a blend of the approved white Alsace grape varieties - gewürztraminer, muscat, pinot blanc, pinot gris, pinot noir, riesling and sylvaner.
I also had another great wine from Butlers Wine Cellar to celebrate the New Year, a 1967 Chianti Classico Fattoria di Montagliari. Still full of life, it was a privilege to taste! Again, you're unlikely to be still able to find this exact wine, but you can get wines that are over twenty years old for less than £10.
I had a marvellous 1985 Chateauneuf du Pape over Christmas. A bargain at £14.95 from Butlers Wine Cellar , it was a Chateau Saint-Andre. Fruity and smooth, it was everything Chateauneuf du Pape should be but seldom is! Unfortunately, you're unlikely to be able to find this exact wine, but do try to get some Chateauneuf du Pape with some age.
Recently, I was impressed with a 1976 Chateau du Mass Bordeaux Supérieur 1975 at £6.75, "austere but classic", a South African 1980 from the Roodeberg coastal region at £9.99, "fruity and fresh, could have been much younger than its 22 years" and a 1983 Soave Classico at an unbelievable £4.95, "straw-coloured, not much nose but lovely fresh but 'knowing' taste". I also had a 1983 Cote-Rotie, which was a pleasant wine, but I think I could have had better wines for £20.
I also tasted a Grahams 1996 Late Bottled Vintage port, which I thought was much better than a 1987 Taylors Quinta de Vargellas at twice the price, both from Waitrose. A 10-year old Medeira also impressed. It was a Sercial, the driest style and is, I think, much underrated.
In June, I tasted a Gewurztraminer from Alsace. It was a Herrenweg de Turckheim 1999 from Tesco and was dry but rich and full - definitely worth the £15 or so it cost (I bought the 2000 vintage in November 2002 but haven't tasted it yet). The same day, I tasted a Clarendon Cabernet Sauvignon 1978 from South Australia, but it was a little disappointing, perhaps a little too old. The same cannot be said about the Brown Brothers Victorian Cabernet Sauvignon 1986, which was still fruity and most enjoyable (just like me, really)!
This year, I tasted a real oddity: a Canadian dessert wine. Mission Hill Family Estate Vidal Icewine Reserve 1998 is from Okanagan Valley. Icewine is expensive, as it is made from grapes that have frozen on the vines, which have picked by night and pressed while still frozen. It was a deep yellow colour, thick, syrupy and hugely concentrated. It's £19.99 for a half-bottle from Waitrose but a real experience.
In October I tasted a 1975 Kanonkop Landgoedwyn Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is from the Stellenbosch region of the South African Cape and cost £15 from Butlers Wine Cellar. I also tasted a 1980 Villa Cerna Chianti Classico, another bargain from Butlers Wine Cellar at only £13.50.
I found some Beaujolais Nouveau in the Brighton branch of Nicholas, but the assistant was scathing about Nouveau, and all but told me I was barking to consider buying it. Admittedly, the wine they sold wasn't very nice, but I found a lovely bottle of Le Chat Rouge in South Downs Cellars in Hurstpierpoint, which I thoroughly enjoyed, and recommend.
I found some Beaujolais Nouveau from Georges Dubœuf in the Manchester branch of House of Fraser on 30 November. I previously bought some Mommessin on 18 November from Waitrose and it was quite palatable, but really enjoyed the glass I had at LA Fitness (née Dragons) in Hove after an energetic yoga session. I can't remember the supplier but I'll try to find out soon.
In 2005, I bought some more Beaujolais Nouveau from Georges Dubœuf on 17 November, and thought it was the best young Nouveau I have tasted. I bought it from Waitrose at £4.99 - the same price as in 2002. Fruity, but without that harsh taste Nouveau can sometimes exhibit, I wholeheartedly recommend buying a few bottles.
I recently tasted a 2000 Nouveau, and it had aged well.
I still have some from the last few years and I hope to try some over Christmas.
I didn't see any Beaujolais Nouveau Nouveau in 2003 - in 2002 Oddbins weren't selling it, and the assistant at Victoria wine hadn't even heard of Beaujolais Nouveau! Sainsbury didn't have it either.
In November 2002 I tried a 2001 Beaujolais Nouveau from Georges Dubœuf. Conventional wisdom says that Nouveau should be drunk within a couple of months, but I disagree. This wine was better than it was last year - fruity and mature (again, just like me!). I have had ten year-old Nouveau that has been drinkable, and a few years ago, I was lucky enough to have tasted some superb 1947 Beaujolais.
I managed to get some Jonnes Chanut at Threshers at £4.99, but wasn't impressed. It was fruity, but a bit harsh and vinegary.
From Unwins I bought some Domaine des Freilles at £3.99. The bottle has lots of information about the wine, even down to the 22 pickers who started picking on 6th September! Some people liked this the best.
Lastly, I bought some Georges Dubœuf for £4.99 from Waitrose. My favourite.
I'll lay down a couple of bottles for a year or so. Update: I drank the last bottle in March 2008, and it was superb!