www.theblisspages.com - travel: Hong Kong
www.theblisspages.com - travel: Hong KongIn June 1998 Hong Kong opened its new international airport - Chek Lap Kok - on Lantau Island, ending an era of steep descents and daredevil landings at Kai Tak in Kowloon.
I remember one memorable flight on British Caledonian Airways (BCAL). The top deck of the Jumbo jet had only four (club-class) passengers, with two stewardesses to see to our every need, so there was plenty of time for a chat. After I happened to mention that one of my interests was wine-tasting, I was given frequent top-ups of vintage Krug champagne, courtesy of first-class. I was offered the privilege of watching the landing at Kai Tuk, but unfortunately, there was a flight controller on board, who naturally took precedence. I was even invited to meet up with the crew later, but regrettably had to decline, due to business commitments (and an excess of Krug). It may have been coincidence, but every single time I travelled on BCAL after that, I was upgraded to first class!
Hong Kong is divided into four main areas - Kowloon, Hong Kong Island, the New Territories and the Outlying Islands. Kowloon and the New Territories are on a peninsula of the Chinese mainland, on the northern side of Victoria Harbour; Hong Kong Island is on the southern side of the harbour facing Kowloon; the Outlying Islands simply refers to any of the other 234 islands - none of which I had the time to visit. The New Territories has a 20 kilometre (12 mile) land border with China proper.
The city itself is centred around Victoria Harbour. The main business district is Central, on Hong Kong Island. East of Central lies the Admiralty commercial district; Wan Chai, known for restaurants and clubs; then Causeway Bay, a major shopping area.
Towering above it all is the Peak, Hong Kong's premier scenic outlook and residential district, with plenty of public green space.
I spent many happy hours wandering round Kowloon, and particularly enjoyed the
the old Man Mo Temple. It was built in the 1800s and is dedicated to Man, the god of literature, and Mo, the god of war. The incense coils hanging from the ceilings were incredible, and I bought one to burn at home. I can smell them now, as I look at the picture I took there. It was a magical moment.
In Kowloon, Tsim Sha Tsui (on the southern tip), Jordan and Yau Ma Tei are busy hotel and shopping areas, while Mong Kok is a bustling residential and shopping area. City attractions include the Central Market, which you will have no trouble finding (just sniff the air), and the Zoological & Botanic Gardens. I really enjoyed walking round these - they are an oasis of calm.
Hong Kong Island is steep, so if you're heading away from the harbour, do as the locals do and ride the 800m (870 yards) outdoor escalator, or funicular. If you're in Hong Kong, you'd be mad to miss a trip to the top of Victoria Peak, 552m (1810ft) above sea level. The views are beautiful in every direction, with the vista of the business district, Victoria Harbour and Kowloon especially grand. In true Hong Kong style the main viewing deck is on the roof of a large shopping mall.
I only had time to make the trip to the top in daylight, but it is supposed to look fantastic at night, when the mass of lights around the harbour will take your breath away. The actual peak is a ten-minute walk west and up.
The north side of Hong Kong Island and most of Kowloon are well-served by Hong Kong's ultra-modern Mass Transit Railway (MTR). Three tunnels link Hong Kong with Kowloon. The Kowloon-Guangzhou (Canton) Railway (KCR) runs from Kowloon to the Chinese border at Lo Wu and is a quick way to get to the New Territories, where I stayed during one trip. Light Rail Transit (fast, modern, air-con trams) run in the New Territories, connecting the city of Tuen Mun with Yuen Long. Double-decker trams trundle along the northern side of Hong Kong Island. Hong Kong Island's double-decker trams aren't fast, but they're the best and most atmospheric way of experiencing 'old' Hong Kong. Try to get a seat at the front window upstairs for the best view.
I also loved going on the star ferries. Hong Kong's ferries are usually faster and cheaper than buses and trams. They are also fun, and the harbour views are stunning in fine weather. Hovercraft are about twice as fast as conventional boats.
top
:
: © Mike Bliss 2008